Old Town

      Las Cruces, New Mexico, 1992


      by Michelle Filkins

          Frantic is not a word here--
          bodies tempered
          by heat bouncing off
          adobe walls, trickling
          through windows of
          shops which auction off
          a culture to the highest
          bidder. Everything is
          authentic Indian--but it
          smells like a joke, a
          bluff, a poke up the ass
          for new white visitors
          looking to Indian
          trinkets for a cure to
          bad dreams,
          by-product of rabid
          consciences.

          In a tourist snare,
          bartender poured out
          Margaritas that claimed
          to be of heaven. We
          cautiously brandished smiles
          through the cluttered land
          of bar talk, we
          listened to the retread
          joke he probably rolled
          at every visitor.
          "There's a university here,
          you know. The men are
          men, so are
          the women, and
          the sheep run scared."
          The land continued
          to beam--proud despite
          derogatory words of reservations
          gone wrong and the decay of
          morality. Outside the air-
          conditioned bar, the sun spilled
          off the sidewalk, staring up
          bleary eyed at the business
          of Old Town.


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